Westland Lynx SH-14D
Dutch naval air service
[ page 4 ]

Conversion of Lynx model in 1/32 scale of Revell 

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page 3...          

STEPS 54-60
The main gear legs are fine in the kit. 
For the Dutch Lynx, new resin stubwings were made (see here...) with no large ECM fairings. The parts #47,48,49,50 are not required when using these.

The cover parts #53+54 will fit after some sanding. 

Sometimes parked Dutch Lynxes have their main wheel at a 45 degree angle turned. If you want this, as indicated in STEP 56, cut off the tiny fitting lugs to enable turning the leg with the main wheel to 45 degrees. I kept the gear in a straight position.

Note that Dutch Lynx SH-14D had a Radar Warning Receiver fitted at the end of the stubwing fairing. Sand flat each resin stubwing end and fit a small circular piece of card for the RWR. (for a very early Lynx stubwing, simply use the resin casted stubwing).

STEPS 61-63
The nose gear is fine and accurate. It will be fitted at a later stage. 

The fitting of some parts to the bottom fuselage is well indicated in the instructions, fit some tiny parts later on to prevent damage..... 

To fit each new resin stubwing, it is required to remove the rear section of each fitting lug to get a good fit. In the resin stubwing parts, the lug gap was partly moulded in to help with alignment and to get a stronger joint.

Use superglue to fit the new stubwings, fill any gaps with filler and sand smooth.
When the sonar is fitted, do not use the cover plate part #138. 
Part #213 is not needed for a Dutch SH-14D. 

The tailrotor as in the kit is fine for later Lynx versions like the Mk.88A. However, even modernized Dutch Lynxes like the SH-14D retained their initial old tailrotor. The older tailrotor retained the original rotating direction and retained the smaller diameter of 2,21 meters (or 69 mm in 1/32  scale). 

1/ remove each tailrotor blade with a razorsaw at the inner joint near the shaft.

2/ remove  2 millimeter on the blade directly next to the blade attachment casting; this will reduce the overall diameter as needed.

3/ sand of each tail rotor blade the "cut-out" area a bit more accurate for the older style blade.

Note that the blades are mirrored on an old style tailrotor (so fit it the other way round)

4/ reduce the lengths of the aisle part #234 and #235 by about 3 mm each. This because there is a tailrotopr fairing on the top of the rotorfin fitted previously.

5/ fit the shortened aisle parts #234 + 235 thus at the OTHER side of the adapted tail rotor!

6/ fit the lever collective part #88

The result is seen here: 

The tailrotor is not yet fitted on the model, first painting is needed.

Fit additional bottom detail parts are per instructions. For a Dutch SH-14D antenna #216 and #26 are not needed. 

The horizontal stabilizer with Gurney flap (a "raised trailing edge") is fine but has a too large span for later Lynx version, including the Mk.88A and the Dutch SH-14D. Remove  14 millimeter at the end of kit part #58. The stabilizer is now fine.

NOTE: for old Lynx variants the kit part can be used as older Lynxes had a larger span stabilizer but without Gurney flap ("raised trailing edge"). Simply sand off the tiny raised trailing edge and you have an old style stabilizer.

STEPS 69-76
For the Dutch Lynxes, the side gun is hardly used in operations, so skip all these steps for a Dutch SH-14D Lynx.

The torpedo's mk.46 look fine, and they were also used by the Dutch navy Lynxes. Assemble if desired. I did not use these kit parts. 

STEPS 78-86
The Sea Skua missiles are not used by the Dutch Lynxes, so skip.

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Created this page November 29, 2012