..continued from page 3....

The model was protected during next finishing and assembly with thin plastic wrapping foil to avoid finger prints and handling damage.

The 4 lower nose 20mm canon fairings were made from cut hollow plastic tubing cut at an angle and added. A simple metal coat was painted onto these. 

The cockpit details were now tackled. I used various photos and the flight manual drawings, some of it seen on my scrap page here...

The cockpit main instrument panel was made from plastic cart with drilled circular holes. 

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Instruments came from my home printed instruments sheet. Several layers were used with also small knobs and switches. Glasses were suggested with Micro Kristal Kleer. Large portions have a green coat but the floor looks to have a metal colour.

The side consoles were also made from card and scrap. The panels were installed. The canopy cockpit edges still need some detail work.

At the canopy rear deck the canopy moving spindle is seen. This was made with rod and electric wire.
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The vacuform canopy is in the ID Models/ TIGGER kit, but basic. I added the internal framing. There is no mirror, this is positioned in the windscreen.

Now the remainder of the details were the handle and a single lower mirror in the windscreen. These were made with a REHEAT etched metal set for the mirror. 

The rear plate at the ejection seat from card is also installed. Note that the floor still needs painting in a metal colour.   .

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The "Raketstol" was made from plastic card and detailed looking at photos. The frame is metal with green details. Straps and belts were made from card and the buckles from various etched metal sets like from REHEAT and from the spares box.

I also used a resin 1/72 seat for checking the dimensions. Often, the seat is quite bare, so without parachute pack fitted. This is installed when the pilot is going to fly with the aircraft.. 

The seat was after painting dry-fitted in the cockpit to check if it is OK. A red firing handle was set at the top. 

(sorry, I forgot to make a photo of the completed seat before installing it; it has a lower frame with a metal colour).

The undercarriage was now tackled. It had to be made from scratch, looking at drawings and photos. The main legs are metal rods for strength and the details were made with tubes, card and sprue.

It took a lot of time to get it well positioned. I used a paper made jig to align all angles and get a symmetric assembly (but forgot to make a photo...).

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I had trouble to find correct main wheels. But my modelling friend Peter suggested to take a look at F4U Corsair wheels and they looked 90% similar to J29 wheels! I could purchase resin Corsair 1/32 wheels from EDUARD set 632019 but they are NOT CHEAP! But the detail is excellent. The main wheel diameter is about 24 mm.

Wheel hub colours on most J29 is dark green and the tyres were airbrushed Revell Aqua panzer grau (very mat dark grey).

For the nose wheel I was lucky to find one in my sprues box complete with mud guard of appropriate size of 12 mm diameter. I do not recall what kit it came from...
I added some details from card such as the anti-torque scissors. 

Some painting still to be done... The wheels will be installed later on.

Below the horizontal elevator, various trim tabs and control rods are seen as well. These were made from scrap. 

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But also, some sections of a plain aluminium coloured decalsheet (e.g using Microscale Trim Film or any other you may have at home) was airbrushed. With a template, several panels were cut from the decals with small scissors. And in various notably round and elliptical panels. These were seen on J29 photos and the scale drawings. These decals were applied on some areas on top of the airbrushed ALCLAD surfaces on the model. This gives a very good result with the model becoming quite realistic.

On the various panels (with some covered with a decal) with a "riveter tool" (in my case from Trumpeter) the small rivets were engraved. 

This is not easy on curved surfaces and it was done only along a few panel lines. 
The effect gives a feel of a recessed riveting. Here seen aft of the cockpit.....

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Now it was time for the J29 markings..... 

The problem noted on page 3 of getting large enough Swedish "Svenska Flygvapnet" roundels was solved after a response on a post I made on the Large Scale Planes (LSP) discussion forum.
See topic here....

The modeller AndersN. from Sweden responded and offered me several decal sheets from a FIAT CR.42 which had the correct sized roundels. And he send them without any costs! Thank you Anders!

The decal roundels were applied. The model had the gloss ALCLAD surfaces so that was OK to avoid silvering. 

Note that the lower roundel is very large and partly sits on the aileron.

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The F13 air force unit based at Norrkoping had a black bordered letter M on the tail. This was made from red and black decal stripes using a printed M in 1/32 scaled size as guide.
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The Svenska Flygvapnet F13 squadron unit badge was found on internet in appropriate resolution. It was printed to correct  1/32 size on white inkjet decal paper from BARE METAL FOIL. A few were printed and after the ink dried, several layers of gloss FUTURE varnish was airbrushed on the decals to seal the ink. The badge could be applied as usual decal. 

The decals were set onto the model with also various stencilling and numbers found in my spare decal box. (during the process I noted that the PRINTSCALE J29 DECALS I had in 1/72 with stencils were far too large!). 

There are not a lot of stencils on a real J29A Tunnan. The small serial no. for a F13 J29A below the horizontal adjustable stabilizer was "composed" from loose number decals. 

After the decals dried, the model got a gloss varnish coat with thinned Johnson Future with the usual technique. This protects the decals. The model was allowed to dry now for 24 hours.

Meanwhile... it would be nice to make something extra for a model diorama....
 

What about a model engine?

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Drops of white glue were used for the connector pipes and some rivets. The rear jet pipe section got a metal tape foil on the surface.

Painting was done with metal coat, green and various metal shades. 

The engine would sit nicely next to the model on a dolly. I found some photos and the dolly was made from rod and cart. The wheels came from the spares box.

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The main colour seems to be dark green of the dolly.


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