1/32 scale Hawker Siddeley/BAe Hawk jet trainers: REVELL |
kit
review / modelling report
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... continued from page 1 ..... BAe Hawk T.1
The T.1A had I believe a more flattened rear upper fuselage above the tail pipe whereas the Revell kit shape in that area represents an early production Hawk. . The Revell kit instructions are clear.
But first, I started with some minor improvements.
There is an annoying ejector pin mark
inside the left intake section. Remove it, otherwise it will make a nice
installment of the intake tunnel impossible.
Next is an important step....
SO IT IS IMPORTANT TO POLISH NOW FIRST THE SURFACES of the main parts, and particularly the wing parts (lower, upper sections). PLEASE DO IT, and BEFORE STARTING ASSEMBLY. With very fine sandpaper and polish paste like JIF, these parts were polished for about an hour while using plenty of water.
The basic kit assembly can start now. STEP 1
Inside the fuselage halves at the
cockpit additional stringer details are seen on a real Hawk. So from card
and rod, add these now. Also, the cockpit edge was made a bit thicker with
plastic strip from EVERGREEN.
The cockpit interior will be further detailed later on. STEP 2
STEP 3
STEP 6
STEPs 7-8 Nose gear well
The red plastic I really did not like. I thus gave all the parts of the RED ARROWS kit a base grey coat and black coats inside the wings with the airbrush. (for the grey Hawk T.1 kit this is not required). STEPs 9-11 and STEP 15
STEPs 12-14
STEP 16
So, I removed with a TIGER razor saw
the flap areas.
The flap has a fixed vane slot covering
about 80% of the flap span (this was done to improve Hawk stall characteristics).
So a separate part was needed for the slot. First, the small gap was closed
at the flap end with card and putty.
The kit main gear bays are nice, but some additional hydraulic tubing and wiring was added from plastic stretched sprue. Also, some extra rib detail was added from card. On the flap inside, a spar was suggested using pieces of sprue from the kit. This will close the wing rear gaps and make a stronger structure. STEP 20
STEP 21
The hinges were NOT yet added onto the wing, first do the basic main wing-fuselage joining as seen in STEP 28. Some gaps were to be filled. The wing was assembled and joined
with the fuselage.
Inside the main gear bays, some additional
wiring and hydraulic pipes were added made from stretched sprue. The doors
were obviously not (yet) fitted.
So in the kit if you want a T.1A the rear upper fuselage is TOO much curved. Also the bulge of the exhaust area is TOO prominent. The curve can be easily flattened by adding cart, putty and sanding it in shape. The bulge itself was made less prominent simply by adding filler. STEP 43 (or 44)
(seen on the grey Hawk kit)
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STEP 22
The nose gear doors were separated as the undercarriage would be deployed/extended. STEPs 23-24 The stabilizers were assembled. Also polish their surfaces!! Otherwise you will never get a smooth gloss paint finish. STEPs 25, 26
The main gear doors as in the kit were simply used and given a grey base coat.
STEP 28 WING
From plastic EVERGREEN strip the separate flap guide vane was made, I did not bother to add a winged airfoil profile, plain card was used. The vane resides on the rear flap and below the wing trailing edge, so is hardly seen what the shape is. Bits of rod were glued between the
vane and the flap to have a gap.
The flap hinge fairings were joined
at this stage on the lower wing and the drooped flap added to help airbrushing
the model..
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For the second Hawk model (2) the same treatment was given to the model. This results in two 1/32 Hawk T.1 models to be finished. Some parts are seen here
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Created this page June 11 , 2013 |