Skip STEPs 24 up to 35 regarding the undercarriage for later. Only some details of brake wires and hydraulics were added inside the bay with some stretched sprue. 

STEPs 36
Mk.6 Hunters and later marks got a slightly different airbrake. It is longer than the Revell part #76 (about 2 mm in 1/32 scale) and has a shorter hinge fairing. (On the mk1-5, the airbrake was is about 2 mm shorter as the Revell part # 76). 
So I simply cut off the 2mm on one part and glued it to the aft of the other intended mk.6 part. 


For planes on the ground, normally the airbrake is in retracted position so do not use part # 78.

STEP 37
Glue on the tail bumper, leave antenna's for later.

STEP 38
Not sure yet about the small antenna on the RNeth AF mk.6, was left for later.

STEP 39
You can add the front windscreen if you want, but I skipped it to later!
Paint the instrument coaming "tyre black". 

STEPs 40+41
Fit the "sabrina's" type as of parts #98+99 as indicated for Dutch AF Hunters. Some white glue was needed to fill the tiny gap at the rear.
Do not fit yet the small ejectors, but for the F.mk6 the scope #94 is present . 

Skip step 42 for later. 

STEPs 43
The 100 gallon tanks were also used on the mk.6, and they have the fins. If you want them, assemble. 

STEP 44-45
For the RNeth AF mk.6 Hunter the pylons with parts #101-104 are not correct. We are lucky to have the parts of the other pylons still in the kit; they are still on the stores sprue. 

Use the parts #112-115 for a RNeth AF Mk.6. I could not really find the small bulges on the pylons on pictures, so sanded these off.

STEP 46 
Do not fit the stores yet, so skip.

STEPs 47-50
Nicely done these extra parts for the early Sidewinder AIM-9B missiles and appropriate pylons. The AIM-9B looks good enough for me. But I did not fit them to the model. 

STEP 51
Use the other pylons *(see above at step 44-45)

STEP 52
Do not fit the stores yet, so skip.

Skip Step 53

Please note that the cockpit was NOT YET detailed; this will be done later to avoid handling damage to these delicate parts. 

Do not forget the underwing stores, pylons and undercarriage doors outher' surfaces!
Masking and spraying takes some time and effort, but the results are worth it!

Typically RNeth air force mk.6 Hunters got a fresh camouflage scheme with light grey undersides and a Dark green and Dark grey camouflage on upper surfaces, similar to RAF Hunters. The use of light grey (and not silver as on the mk.4) was an anti-corrosion measure. 

For the light grey RAL 7001 you can use Humbrol 128 or Xtracolor X255.
For the Dark green Humbrol 163 or Xtracolor X1. 
For the Dark Grey Xtracolor X130 or Revell 77, atlthough the Revell 77 is very dark. Humbrol 79 is may be better.

During air force service the green and grey colours quickly faded on mostly the horizontal surfaces with the colours becoming lighter. DACO from Belgium (  http://www.dacoproducts.com     ) has enamels for the faded khaki green PA25 en dark grey PA26 for the Hunter colours readiy available with a nice "blueish hue" in the PA26. (Alternatively you can use mix in some white paint with the fresh colours). 

All enamel colours (including DACO) were thinned with 60% paint, 20% thinner and 20% white spirit.

First, a couple of "pre-shading" mat black stripes were sprayed on. They will give depth later on at particularly the gaps of flying surfaces.

Than the model was given an undercoat of  light grey RAL 7001. 

After 24 hours, the horizontal demarcation line was masked off with Tamiya masking tape. 

Next, the upper and side surfaces first a coat of the darker grey Revell 77. Than, on the upper horizontal surfaces the DACO slightly less dark grey was sprayed on most areas. This gives the model a good look as the vertical surfaces (eg. under the vertical tail and at the light grey demarcation) are still the darker grey.

The green camouflage colour has a rather "sharp" edge as rubber paint masks were used on real planes. You masked the camo scheme with for example Tamiya masking tape and tissue.

On the fuselage end there is a big metal area; I suspect that the camo paint would not hold at the hotter end.

Also the wheelbays were given an aluminium coat.

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