The table is next to a window so to get plenty of light.

The required references are also not far away. Hundreds of books and magazines and an index/reference book is kept and maintained to find info. And, also use the INTERNET to find lots of information!!!! 
GOOGLE is my favorite search engine
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Tools
The most used tools are not that many and strange enough I always use the same handy ones:
- the X-acto knife
- a piece of metal to cut and protect the table
- scissors etc
- tweezers
- Olaf P-cutter to make recessed panellines
- superglue from Eduard that does not "fog" with moisture

All the other stuff is kept in a portable carton box... it is a mess but lots of handy materials can be found in here....

Spray area
Spraying is done in a separate room near a window and plenty of ventilation. There is an ordinary kitchen air ventilator above the workbench that sucks air and pushes it outside the house through a flexible hose : 

Airbrushes
For spraying purposes where I need to cover large areas, a Badger model 150 double action airbrush is used, in use for years; sometimes a new head is purchased. 

I also use a German HANSA model 5781 fine airbrush in certain areas for fine work:

For very fine work, the Infinity airbrush from Harder & Steenbeck is used:

Compressor
Compressed air comes from a SilAir compressor, an excellent and very silent compressor complete with air regulator and water trap. 

3M mask
Very important is the health protective mask, a 3M model 7002 half mask respirator with two filters. I use it every time I airbrush even with "ventilation on" and window open.

It seems that the enamel paints will not be allowed any more in the European community countries due to their hazards and dangers of the toxic thinners.

So I am also now trying to use acrylic "non - toxic"  paints such as from :

ModelMaster from the USA: it has also Fed.Standard FS numbers
LifeColor from Italy: it has also Fed.Standard FS numbers
Gunze Sanyo acryllics 

JOHNSON FUTURE / PLEDGE
For finishing the models, usually for the acryllic clear coating udes is Johnson FUTURE (renamed Pledge) as it is known in the USA. 

Note: often Johnson KLEAR as sold in the U.K is mentioned in the modellers world. It is noted that Johnson Future from the USA is to be preferred as it does not yellow in time. The Klear does a little bit so should not be used on white surfaces! For other coloured surfaces it is fine. And I know: I have both varnishes as used for wooden floors and have used them for many years... The Klear becomes a little yellow after some years.

Future can also be given less gloss effects; you can mix in acryllic Tamiya Flat base X21  .
This acts as a matting agent. Mix in ratios between 5 - 15% max ! The more matting agent added, the more matt the Future becomes. Be aware of the fact that 15% is really the maximum otherwise you get a "white" sheen over the model.

Prevent Silvering
Tiny air bubbles trapped below applied decals spoil the appearance of a model. The bubbles are caused by a combination of bad decal glue and uneven under surfaces. Future can help here! Here is how it works....
1. as usual, apply a gloss undercoat on the model with Future (see above);
2. cut out the decal to be applied;
3. soak in water and wait a few minutes;
4. pick up the decal with fine tweezers and turn it to its backing; have a wet glass plate ready and use this to help handling;
5. REMOVE the decal glue with a brush soaked in water; slide/move it onto the glass plate; 
6. Add FUTURE on the back of the decal with another brush; this will act as glue!
7. Apply prepared decal to model;
8. Carefully rub out any airbubbles with a brush soaked in water.
9. clean the surrounding area directly

This trick will prevent air bubbles very effectively!

Always, prior to the assembly of any model, the smaller parts are given a basic coat of paint as required (black, white etc) while still on their sprues. A lot of model sprues are than handled at the same time, as seen below....

This saves lots of work and time later on, instead of having to spray every set of parts for each model separately, you will get a whole set of models to "start with".... please note that only in smaller parts are sprayed and the interiors of bays, cabins etc.

Cleaning up material
Sometimes, the paintjars, airbrushes and other stuff becomes dirty no matter how well you clean up stuff everytime you work with it. For drastic measures and clean-up, I use an UltraSonic cleaning device one in a while. The cleaning fluid is a mix of 80% water and 20% Tickopur R33

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