No separate dedicated workshop is used, but.... a table for the Works... So don't think that you need a whole workshop to get nice model results! Any simple setting can be used!
The table is next to a window so to get plenty of light. Sometimes I use a handy electronic JPG photo frame viewer with USB stick to have photos nearby. (UPDATE... now a Tablet with internet connection...)
The required references are also not
far away. Hundreds of books and magazines and an index/reference book is
kept and maintained to find info. But nowadays I use the INTERNET to find
lots of information!!!!
For rougher work, this saw is used:
All the other stuff is kept in a portable
carton box... it is a mess but lots of handy materials can be found in
Now, I almost use the Infinity
airbrush from Harder & Steenbeck. Very
good airbrush indeed! Nozzles I have are 0.2 , 0.4 and 0.6. For most airbrush
work the 0.6 nozzle distinguishable with "2 rings" engraved is used. Compressor
pressure varies in most cases between a very low 0.8 bar up to 1.4 bar.
Modelling paints used are enamels from Humbrol, Revell, XtraColour, and acrylics from Gunze Sangyo, Revell and sometimes Tamiya.
It seems that
the enamel paints will not be allowed any more in the European community
countries due to their hazards and dangers of the toxic thinners. But still
in 2015, they were on the market.
the last years I try to use acrylic "non - toxic" paints as much
as possible. I really recommend you try to use these as well. Much
healthier and far less bad air.
acrylics in the blue square containers.
TIP: If you do not have the correct Revell Aqua thinner another solution is: 30% water + 70% isopropol IPA alcohol from the pharmacy and a drop of dish-water liquid to thin Revell Aqua acrylics paint! If the paint dries too fast, use less IPA. The mix to be fed into the airbrush is: 50% desiedpaint +15% water +35% IPA.
Sometimes for Russian aircraft, I use AKAN acrylic paints that, after being thinned with their own thinner, are airbrushed.
FINAL NOTE: I do not use Valejo acrylic after some bad experiences with adherence and drying time.
When a model is ready for the decals, first a couple of gloss coats were added to avoid "any" decal silvering. Usually I use...
Nowadays in the USA the Future is now called "Johnson Pledge Floor Care". It appears to be the same stuff as the old Future.
Future can be thinned for a better airbrushing result. Use 70% Alkohol Ketonatus or IPA that can be bought in a bottle at the drugstore. A mix of 60% FUTURE + 40% Alkohol gives good results.
Future can also
be given less gloss effects; you can mix in acrylic Tamiya
Flat base X-21 .
In many cases the fine Harder Steenbeck airbrush was used with 0.6 nozzle with pressure at a very low 0.8 Bar. The Future mix is usually not thinned. Spray from not less that 15 cm distance in very thin layers. This gives a nice even sheen.
This trick will prevent air bubbles
Also, the inevitable but very handy spares box is needed; keep all stuff that you don't need from kits, get from older kits etc. These parts can also be used for scratch building, conversions etc...
Always, prior to the assembly of any model, the smaller parts are given a basic coat of paint as required (black, white etc) while still on their sprues. A lot of model kits and sprues are than handled at the same time. This saves lots of work and time later on, instead of having to spray every set of parts for each model separately, you will get a whole set of models to "start with".... please note that only in smaller parts are sprayed and the interiors of bays, cabins etc..
A similar box has lots of spare decals and sets.
We often need to mask already painted areas, so masking tape is often needed. Very fine low tack masking tape is from Tamiya but a very cheap alternative is to use "wasi tape". It has similar characteristics.
...and ..... Wasi tape
This stuff bought in department and drug stores can be used to remove putty without sanding! With tissue dipped into the nail polish remover you can sweep off any surplus putty. It works excellent on eg. Tamiya putty. No sanding needed and you protect your model surfaces from scratches.
An alternative is called "Blue Wonder" found in many department drug stores:
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|Created this page
January 19, 2003
Last update August 1, 2017