1/32 scale Hunter T-7 FISHER conversion of Revell kit

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FISHER MODEL AND PATTERN issued a conversion set for use with the injection moulded 1/32 Revell kit.
In 2006 Revell issued a Hunter F.mk6 kit (No.04727 ) and that can be used, but also the Swiss kit FGA9/mk 58 can be used if you only get your hands on this one. The conversion set was ordered directly from the USA. http://www.fishermodels.com

Decals are available from FLEVO decals for a Dutch AF Hunter T.7 so what would prevent me making a nice 1/32 model?

A great walk around of the T-8C is seen on the Dutch IPMS website here....  (Note: the T-8C Hunter looks a lot like a T-7, but is seen with red anti-collision lights at the spine and in front of airbrake and it has an arrestor hook. On the Dutch T-7 Hunters, these are not present. Also in the T-7 cockpit, gun sights are present). 

The main parts in the FISHER MODEL AND PATTERN HUNTER T-7 Conversion set are resin main parts, metal undercarriage legs to carry the heavy weight, etched metal instrument panels and details and a clear resin canopy and windshield. Also RAF decals are provided. 

You get a written set of instructions with the conversion set along with assembly photos. 

Working on the resin  parts, separating them from the casting moulds:

The resin moulded two seater canopy. It will benefit from dipping it into Johnson Future/Pledge acrylic coat to have a better shiny look. The canopy is very fragile so take care not to break it!

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Decals for RAF planes in the FISHER set:
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Two very nice Martin Baker seats are provided with the FISHER set:

The instrument panels are also included and have several etched metal plates as seen here:

How the real T-7 panels look like:

 

The FISHER parts were separated from their moulding blocks, cleaned up and ready to get a first coat of light grey

On to assembly using the Revell F.mk6 instructions of the Revell 1/32 kit. (for the FGA9/mk 58 step numbers indicated are slightly different). Please note that the STEP numbers here are based on this F mk.6 kit's instructions. 

Step "0"  Model preparation
The Revell kit spine should be reduced in length, do not use the incorrect figures of FISHER but measure your self using the forward FISHER fuselage and spine as a guide. 

Indeed do not fit at this stage the new resin spine to the resin cockpit, the cockpit floor will not fit through the remaining opening. So it is important to finish up the cockpit interior first so far that the floor can be fitted.

Steps 1-8
can be skipped as they deal with the cockpit, use the FISHER instructions. 

For the smaller resin and metal parts CA glue was used, for fixing the larger parts 2-component expoxy glue. 

The FISHER floor is very very thin and I think the depth a bit undeep, probably the nose gear bay is a bit to deep. But nothing that is disturbing. For the cockpit numerous details were prepared such as the side walls and assembled, ready for installment. The frets and interior were airbrushed. Working on the T-7 cockpit interior, using several layers with the FISHER parts and the supplied decals:
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The overall colour of the Hunter cockpit is "black" as common for fighter types of that period. A dark grey/black mix
 was used including drybrushing to show of the detail and to prevent a "coal hole". (obviously do not fit the seats yet). 

Dials and instrument are provided as well in the FISHER set, to be set aft of the panel. The instruments were covered by transparant Micro Kristal Clear later on.
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All the cockpit parts were fitted in the resin nose, this is needed prior to fitting it to the rear fuselage. The side walls need some trimming at there lower edges by about 3 mm otherwise they do not fit. 

The hole for taking the swivelling canopy mechanism should be kept clear, a covering plate is provided in the set. 

Some filling and sanding is needed at the sides, but this can be easily done now at this stage and not later as to avoid the intakes obstructing the work. The finished forward cockpit and nose section was set aside. 

Now I continued with the rear fuselage.

Step 9
The main intake duct. Fill the ejector pin marks in parts #25 + 26, paint and assemble as shown. The intake ducts take tape to glue them correctly. 

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Steps 12-13 can be skipped for now. 

Step 14
Use the FISHER rear end part. I cut off the sides of the resin exhaust part for a better fit:

The rear fuselage requires some tape and persuation to get a good result. 

Some filling is needed to get a nice result at the exhaust area with the parapack fairing. Take care with the fragile thin fairing edges. 
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Steps 19-20 can be skipped

Step 15
The trailing edge droop flap (parts # 41 and 48) have a small cut-out for the larger wing tanks. On the mk.4 and T-7 these were not present. Simply cut of the corner of the lower wing halve and reposition onto the flap. Fill and sand. 

Step 17
Assemble the wing as shown in the Revell instructions. 

IMPROVEMENT SUGGESTION:
The openings for the inner pylons (see STEP 43 -46) for the 100 gallons tanks are too far outboard and should be positioned 2 mm and in parallel with the leading edge in 1/32 scale more inboard! This will improve the look of the Hunter model.
Make new holes and fill up the incorrect holes. 

Also, the wing sawtooth should extend 4 mm more inboard as compared to that on the kit. I added this extension on both wing halves with card and putty. 

The wing root slots were opened up and the leading edge extension filled and sanded. The aileron edges were sawed to get a see through effect with the razor saw. 

The completed and corrected LE extension tooth.

The intake slots were cut open as well. 

Step 18
Skip for now, leave for later. 

Steps 19-20 can be skipped as the exhaust has already been fitted. 

Step 13
The intake ducts are now set inside the rear fuselage, but not yet glued in place. Next was fitting the T-7 forward fuselage to the rear fuselage.

Sand and putty the whole fuselage with exhaust + main + front sections as needed now as you can now easily handle the fuselage. The lower area needs filler and considerable sanding... There is a "step". 

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