continued from previous
A step by step approach will be given
and depending on the type of work, will not follow the kit steps. The kit
step # will be indicated however.
[ Step 0 ] :
The kit has various "re-inforcement
plates" on many surfaces (note: these are NOT battle damage repare plates!
Phantoms received various structural re-inforcements during their service
careers and also on certain variants, the F-4EJ being no exception).
For the F-4EJ not all plates
should be there and some of them are too pronounced on the kit parts.
Start with the main fuselage part
and sand off the plates at the mid fuselage and rear fuselage . Also sand
off the plates at intakes parts A1+A2. On the wing tips, the plate at the
upper leading edge should be sanded off (so flush) and I suggest to reduce
some thickness on the mid hinge re-inforcement plate (parts A4 + A8).
- First fit the panel A7 as seen
in step 1 and sand flush (as the F-4EJ has indeed no refuelling boom).
- Also fit part A3 as seen in Step
2, fill and sand smooth.
- A small draining hole is missing
on both sides of the fuselage above the root of the wing leading - edge.
Make a hole with a 0.2 mm drill.
- Also, drill two holes in the spine
(suggesting the refuelling indicator lights) in the round panel in front
of part A3 with 0,3 mm
- Fill the RAM air turbine panel
lines with putty on left fuselage in center of walkway (not on the F-4EJ)
as well the corresponding panel on the right side.
[ Step 1 ]:
The intake as provided in the kit
gives problems because when you look inside it, you see edges as the intake
lips do not match the intake tunnels/ducts. You can repair this with some
effort (alternatively buy aftermarket resin "Seamless suckers intakes").
Repair requires some cutting and
sawing but can be done:
a. Separate the two forward intake
ducts as moulded on the main fuselage with a razor saw; use caution and
try to saw in a straight lines.
b. Assemble the ducts (parts B26+B42,
B27+B43); do not fit the compressor parts yet.
c. Fit the sawed off plastic ducts
onto the assembled ducts
d. Dry fit the whole assembly and
carefully determine where to fit the outward intakes A1 and A2
e. Make an assembly as seen below
f. Using Milliput, make the internal
edges invisible. This may take some layers.
g. Continue with the splitter plates:
they have some vents at the lower and upper rear ends. Cut open and add
some tiny walls from card. The ramp inboard edge is indeed correctly angled
down in the kit. Assemble the splitter plate parts and fill the rear
with putty; sand flush after drying.
h. Spray the entire ducts matt white
as you are unable to reach them with the airbrush later on. Also spray
on white paint at the rear flat panel on the splitter plates.
i. Glue on the splitter plates onto
the prepared intakes and make sure they are well aligned with the main
Here you see the whole intake assembly,
being much better now.
[ Step 2 ]: leave for later, go to...
[ Steps 3- 4
Tamiya provides for the F-4EJ correct
instrument panels (with new parts). The details are raised with knobs and
edges and very good. With some painting you can get fine results. There
are however some small errors in the Tamiya cockpit parts which can easily
a. the scope on part F30 is too small
in diameter. Cut off and replace.
b. the rear bulkhead wall of part
F4 should be vertical and not angled (error in all Tamiya F-4 kits).
c. the side consoles in the back
cockpit of the F-4E do not go all the way to the back. There are shelves
with equipment to be fitted. So remove some plastic as seen below and add
a floor and new bulkhead. (The top edge of the bulkhead should remain at
the same station position.)
Obviously you can add more details
in the cockpit and for this model Eduard set 32-041
for the F-4E is also used to add
some extra etched metal detailling.
The tub was sprayed light grey. (note:
the missing shelves with equipment will be fitted later on).
The area at the rear canopy hinge
also cries for some extra details and there is an opening. This was
also drilled open and a horizontal floor inside the spine fitted as seen
below with the tub dry-fitted.
The inner walls of the cockpit got
extra details from card, stretched sprue using also some Eduard metal details.
Below you see also the fuse panel part A10 also fitted.
The canopy hooks fit into lock openings
in the horizontal sides. These were drilled open.
The instrument panels themselves got
the usual treatment with painting with a very fine tip brush, drybrushing,
scratching in the dials and using instrument decals is some areas.
The cockpit also got additional details
painted on and some sprue.
The instrument decals are from an
"unknown" decal source. Add these dials and instruments, using a Waldron
Punch and Dy set to punch them out.